Canada has nine, Ireland has 81 and the UK (including Northern Ireland) has 144 Blue Flag Beaches. In contrast, and despite having a smaller coastline, Portugal has 189. One of these is Quinta do Lago.

Bernardo Reino (universally known as Gigi) has been serving lunch at his famous beach-side fish restaurant, Gigi’s, for more than 20 years. But the length of time Gigi’s has been there is only one small measure of its success.